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Back To Completed Projects [06/05/06] Well, half a year later, I get off my arse and finally take some pictures of completed Yule Gown!



[12/18/05] Finished! Pictures to come...

[10/16/05] Now I've added a full Wine Red velvet underskirt so I don't have that gap between the front panel and the over skirt, and it poofs out the overskirt nicely as well. My legs shouldn't be cold now :D I'm still hand-stiching thread over the metal eyelets for the lower gauntlets, and I haven't made the upper gauntlets yet. The red sleeves are going to be detachable, and the ribboned sleeves and lower gauntlets (attached to each other, see sketch 2) will be detachable also and separate from the red sleeves. This way I can change out sleeves, go sleeveless (just chemise sleeves) etc. In pic [PIC 9] is the sleeve with just the gaunlet and ribbons. Those ribbons are cheap satin ribbons so I can get the right length. The real ribbons are black velvet trimmed in gold. In [PIC 10] is how the sleeve will look with the upper gauntlet, which will look like the lower gauntlet, but you get the idea.
[07/02/05] Updated pictures. Now the full overskirt is attached and the side eyelets for lacing are sewn, with temporary lacing for the pictures. [PIC 1] [PIC 1]
[03/20/05] The name for this gown is pretty self-explanatory if you're in the SCA; It's a tudor-inspired dress I was making for Yule (Our SCA Christmas Party). I have seen some beautiful things done with criss-crossing ribbon over a bodice front and putting pearls on the intersections, so I started designing with this feature in mind. First I started with a pretty standard design, a colored panel in the front, black velvet for the rest, fitted button-down sleeves, and a kind of circlet and buns number inspired by what the Princess of Wales wore in Braveheart, which you can see [HERE]. This is my [ORIGINAL DESIGN SKETCH].

Then, I got the idea that I wanted to make the bodice more corsetted, and I had a few different sleeve ideas. I did decide I wanted the center panel to be gold since I seem to only stick to jeweltones in my wardrobe. First I redesigned it to [THIS SKETCH], squaring the neckline, making the back a bit more poofy and the front corsetted, but still one panel. These slash sleeves I looked all over for period evidence of them and it seems these sleeves are German. Then I tweaked it a bit to make [THIS SKETCH]. I debated bringing the pleated skirt all the way around to the front which seems a bit more period and I played with two slash-sleeve options. I then figured out that I could do the style to the left of the sketch, and if I added a separate upper armband to lace on, I could create the second look as well. I found several pieces of evidence in paintings (though not anything exact). [THIS PAINTING] is probably the best evidence, it has the same shape bodice, the same shape skirt without the front opening, slashed sleeves on the top, and gold criss-cross with pearls at the intersection (in the partlet) but unfortunatly I didn't get a date for this painting. [THIS PAINTING] is of Saint Magdalen and is good evidence of pleated skirts combined with this type of sleeve. The bodice, though, is softer. This one was painted in 1525. This painting called [Hercules and Omphale] was painted in 1537 and shows two gowns, one with a wide boat neckline and the other with a more squarish version like my design. Some garb nazis told me they didn't think it was period because they weren't sure about the slashed sleeves at all, and if it went with this type of bodice and skirt, but I think I have enough evidence to justify it. The only thing I haven't found are these features combined with a split-front skirt.

On to my construction. I ordered this golden-yellow velvet, but when I got it, it was this disgusting mustard yellow. So I went to JoAnns where I had purchased the black velvet and picked up this deep wine color, which is actually much prettier than a gold would have been I think. In the bodice, the back is only one piece which is more period, and the front is 3 pieces because of the front panel. I interfaced the velvet, interfaced the lining fabric (cotton, not thin stuff), I put a piece of cotton duck between it, and last but not least, about 4-6 pieces of spiral steel boning. Y-eah, no breathing for me. The side will lace up, but I'm having problems putting regular eyelets in it. I'll have to see if they make them for thicker fabrics or something. I have the back skirt and right front skirt panel attached and some of the pearls attached to the bodice. I also have the basic undersleeves sewn and the lower armbands sewn. I wasn't far enough along to get this done for last Yule and I had 4 Star Wars costumes and an original design for a friend to do, so this project is put on hold until sometime after Celebration III. My aim is to have it ready for this coming Yule. The past two years I was cold, so I think this one will actually be a little warm. And it's the more upholstery-type velvet so dirt should come off real easy :)